Reviews Written By: A1UHFS6TTS0MF8provided by Amazon.com |
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 | Bosch RA1125 7-Piece Template Guide Set | |
 | "OK, but here's a way to save money" | 2007-05-23 |
| The Bosch template adapters are handy due to the quick-change feature, but they are poorly made, among the few Bosch products I don't enthusiastically recommend. If you own a set of Porter-Cable adapters, you can save $15 by getting the RA1100 PC-Bosch adapter alone. Amazon has it for less than $7. It is cast (not stamped), solid, and locks into my Bosch routers very securely. The PC adapters fit the RA1100 very closely, so there are no problems with slop or poor centering. This is my preferred method of using template adapters on my Bosch routers. BOSCH Tool-free Templet Guide Adapter for Competitor Templet Guides RA1100 | ||
 | Jorgensen ISD 12 Inch Bar Clamp | |
| "Effective, but some design flaws" | 2007-02-24 |
| I bought some Jorgensen ISD clamps because they were billed as having most of the clamping power of a conventional bar clamp. While they certainly have a lot of grip, I suggest you select something else. The no-mar pads have a tendency to slip off the heads, a small frustration that becomes increasingly nagging as it happens time-and-time again. This is a reversible clamp. To convert from clamping to spreading, you unscrew a knob to release the fixed head, move the head to the other end of the bar, and screw the knob back in place. This knob has a tendency to loosen in use unless you torque it down frequently. That might not be too bad, but the nut that receives the knob's screw isn't captive in the body of the clamp. Everytime the thing comes appart, the nut falls out. Working in the attic, I had a lost nut disappear entirely somewhere in a vast quantity of blown-in insulation. Yes, I know nuts are easily available, but should I really have to worry about this at all? Even if I don't lose the nut, it's a nuisance to have the clamp falling apart when I'm managing a glue-up. This is the only clamp design I'm aware of that uses a screw to secure the reversible head, probably an indication that it's a bad approach. Check out the Irwin one-hand clamps, which use a sliding clip to lock the reversible head. Also, see my review of the Bessey DuoKlamp for a product that I think is superior to the Jorgensen's. | ||
 | Bessey DUO45-8 18" DuoKlamp One Hand Clamp/Spreader | |
 | "The first clamp I usually reach for" | 2007-02-24 |
| Frankly, I wouldn't buy a clamp based on how easily it changes from clamping to spreading. It's not something I need to do very often. First and foremost, I want a clamp that works well in it's primary role of clamping. As a clamp, the DuoKlamp is superb. It's not bad for spreading, either. I like the grip, which is in-line with the bar, as opposed to the pistol grip used on most squeeze-operated clamps. Whether the bar is vertical or horizontal, it's usually possible to find a grip that doesn't put an unnatural twist on your wrist, enabling you to squeeze tighter with less strain. The heads have lots of squeezing power. I can't measure the force, but it's certainly adequate for my needs. There are situations when the head design causes problems. The heads are a bit wide and thick, so they won't fit in some restricted spaces. Don't expect to fit a DuoKlamp everywhere you might be able to use a bar clamp. Also, the grip depth of 3 3/8" isn't as deep as it is on some clamps. DuoKlamps won't replace your bar clamps, and you may need other designs in some situations. Nevertheless, the heads work for most jobs I do. Another review criticizes the button that releases the clamp head when it is tightened down. The button is indeed small and a bit stiff, making it harder to release the head than on some other one-hand clamps. Before you make a big investment in DuoKlamps, see if you are comfortable with the finger strength that is required. I'm not terribly bothered by it, but my wife has trouble with them. A bigger release trigger would be a welcome improvement. I think Bessey kept the trigger small so it wouldn't stick out any further than necessary from the body of the clamp. To convert the DuoKlamp to a spreader, you twist a knob, after which squeezing the handle spreads the heads rather than closing them. But that doesn't make conversion instantaneous. If you want to use the no-mar pads, you have to peel them off one side of the head and press them on to the other. The spreader side of the head isn't quite as well-suited to accepting the pads. Minor differences in the two sides of the head mean that there may be situations when the heads can grip but can't spread. On a minor note, the no-mar pads don't readily slip off the heads. This has been a problem with other clamps I've used. To get them off the DuoKlamp, you really have to make a concerted effort to peel them off the clamp heads, avoiding the irritation of pads that spontaneously slip off, something that always seems to happen when it's least convenient.. Here's the bottom line: When I want a clamp, the first one I reach for is usually a DuoKlamp. Of all the one-hand clamps I've tried, the DuoKlamp is the one I most want to spend my money on. | ||
 | Bostitch N88RH-2MCN Industrial High-Powered Round Head Framing Nailer and Metal Connector | |
| "Great value, good performance" | 2007-02-20 |
| I needed a nailer for some home improvement projects and had been considering products in the mid-to-high $200 price range such as the Porter Cable and DeWalt. Generally speaking, I don't like to spend too little on a tool since I'm usually disappointed by features, durability, or both. The 5-star reviews on this product influenced me to take a chance, and I have no regrets. The N88RH-2MCN has done everything I require. (Please note, I've used lots of smaller air nailers, 16ga and smaller. This is my first and only experience with a framing nailer, so I have no basis for comparison. All I can say is that I am pleased.) The package includes two attachments (tips): a regular one (nicely spiked for toe nailing) and a special one for use with metal connectors. You MUST use Bostich fasteners with the metal connector attachment. I found them at Home Depot. Included is a soft nose to cover the spikes on the regular attachment so that you won't damage decking and other decorative materials. Depth adjustment is easily accomplished. Considering what it has to do, this nailer is reasonably light and handles easily. Unlike other users, I've had a couple of problems. I had one jam that required a trip to the repair shop. The manual doesn't recommend a method of removing a jammed fastener. The technician simply shoved a small screwdriver up the nose and pried the nail loose and up into the magazine where it could be removed. I would have been afraid to use such a crude procedure on my own. Now I know what to do, so I don't consider this single jam to be a serious defect. I also occasionally have trouble firing off the last couple of nails in a stick. The plastic collating strips sometimes crack, enabling the nails to go cockeyed. That's what caused my jam, in fact. I can't say if this is a general problem with nailers that use plastic-collated fasteners, or a problem that's specific to the Bostich. In any case, any problems have been infrequent, and certainly don't prevent me from recommending the product. For the cost, it's everything I'd hoped for. You'll have to ask the pros how it will stand up to daily, heavy use. For the home handiman, it's a great value. | ||
 | JET 70424 24" Parallel Clamp | |
| "The best, and I've tried nearly all of them." | 2006-12-28 |
| I've worked with Bessey and Jorgensen parallel clamps, and I've looked closely at the Gross Stabil clamps. For me, the Jet parallel clamps eclipse everything else. They're all solid clamps, and they'll all do the job for which they're intended, but the Jet clamps have some nice advantages. The chief advantage is the head lock. To release or lock the heads on the other clamps, you pivot the handle. Sometimes, when you're working with a tough glue-up and gravity is against you, it can be awkward to pivot the handle and turn it to tighten the screw. And when you arrange most parallel clamps vertically, the head almost always slides down, which can be a nuisance or even a nuckle-basher. Those sliding heads are heavy! In any case, when gravity has its way, the head will be at the bottom of the bar, which isn't necessarily where you want it. On the Jet clamps, the head locks in place unless you squeeze a trigger. This means you can pre-set the gap, a task that is made easier by the inch markings on the bar. Then, you position the clamp, the head stays where you put it. Minor advantages of the Jet clamps are the dogs that screw into the stationary jaw and a bracket that clamps to the bar. You can insert these dogs into the 3/4" holes found in most workbenches, thus preventing the clamps from moving or falling over while you're preparing your glue-up. Don't be too deterred by the cost. You can use parallel clamps for nearly all your clamping jobs. They're heavy, but they'll do almost anything a bar or pipe-clamp can do. For awhile, I've been buying one clamp a month. (I use Amazon Prime, which I wouldn't live without, but all these clamps qualify for free ground shipping, so there's no penalty in spreading things out.) | ||
 | JET 70450 50" Parallel Clamp | |
| "Best of the best" | 2006-08-03 |
| Parallel clamps are incredibly sturdy and useful. There aren't any bargains. A good parallel clamp is difficult to make, and I'm only aware of premium lines. I own some Jorgensens, and I've looked at Bessey and Gross Stabil. It's hard to go wrong with any of the brands, but I think Jet clamps are the best. They are easy to adjust, and the head stays put until you squeeze the trigger. Trigger-operated heads are appearing on more brands of clamps, and Jet is the first to put them on a parallel head clamp. I highly recommend them. | ||
 | Kid Pix Deluxe 4 Home Edition | |
 | "Don't buy this version for OS X" | 2006-05-13 |
| The market for Kid Pix is confused because both Broderbund and MacKiev are licensed to produce versions. I highly recommend MacKiev's KidPix Deluxe 3X. It's completely rewritten for OX X and has worked perfectly for me on versions 10.3 and 10.4. For reasons I can't fathom, Amazon doesn't offer the MacKiev product. I got mine in an Apple store. You can also order from mackiev.com. | ||
 | Sims 2: Nightlife (DVD-Rom) (Mac) | |
| "The essential Sims 2 upgrade" | 2006-04-10 |
| I've been playing Sims 2 on the PC since it was introduced and own all 3 upgrades. Now, I've bought everything available for the Mac to play when I travel. Frankly, I wouldn't want to play Sims 2 without Nightlife. Dating is the most important capability Nightlife brings to the game. I find it tedious to build and maintain relationships with the base game. Dating lets you monitor both sides of a social relationship, and also tends to focus the participating sims on each other. This makes it easier to build strong relationships and to fulfill high-value wants and earn aspiration points. If you have lots of aspiration points, you don't have to resort to cheats to maintain needs or to keep sims from aging before you want them to. The first thing you'll want to do for any sim you play is to give them at least one strong dating relationship so they can top off their aspirations when they need to. Let's face it, it's easier to face going to work when you had a little hot romance the previous night. The essential dating tool is a car. Now you can go out or drive to work in your own car. Picking up your date in a hot car immediately improves the date score. But the real reason for owning a car is that if two sims are seeking initimate reactions and a car is on the lot, chances are they'll want both WooHoo and WooHoo in Car, which nets you double rewards for a single interaction. If you have a car, a little time on a date can quickly make the sims' aspirations go platinum while building up lots of aspiration rewards that let you buy Energizers, Elixer of Love dispensers, and Thinking Caps. With those, you can make your sims accomplish almost anything you want. Chemistry is a new Nightlife feature that can be a lot of fun. By defining Turn-Ons and Turn-Offs for sims, chemistry simulates what we all feel, greater attraction for some people, less for others. NPCs have their own Turn-On's and Turn-Offs, but can specify them for sims you play and change them when you want. When you let sims function autonomously, chemistry works with memories and other attributes to make their interactions more complex. When you control the sims, it's easier or more difficult to establish friendships and romances, depending on the chemistry they sims feel for each other. New with Nightlife is the ReNuYuSenso Orb, which lets you change sims' Aspirations as well as their Turn-Ons and Turn-Offs. With the Orb, a sim can start out with a Family aspiration and change to a Knowledge aspiration when the kids are in school. In other words, your sims deepest desires can change as they mature. I use the Orb a lot. Nightlife includes Downtown, which provides a many more destinations the sims can travel to, including restaurants, clubs, and bowling alleys. Sims 2, even with University, is a bit dull in terms of social destinations. You'll find dating a lot more interesting in Nightlife. You can also send sims on friendly outings. Outings are more challenging than dates since you're managing interactions between more than two sims, but they enable your sims to meet strangers and start building relationships with large numbers of people. When your sim is invited out on an outing, they'll arrive at a destination with several friends, some of which are likelyk to be strangers. If your sim is on a career path that requires lots of friends, outings can make it much easier to get the friendships started. (I still miss some of the things you could do in Sims 1 parks, such as sailing boats. In Sims 2, parks are pretty dull places by comparison.) In summary, the emphasis of Nightlife is on sim's social lives. Relationships are richer and the range of social interactions is much more extensive. I'd hate to play The Sims 2 without Nightlife. | ||
 | Logitech Harmony 890 Advanced Universal Remote Control | |
| "If you make a bit of effort, it works fine. Highly recommended" | 2006-03-05 |
| This is my second customizable remote. I've been using a $400 Home Theater Master MX1000 for several years. It's capable, but fragile. Mine's been broken twice. The software hasn't been updated since Windows 95 (!) and I can't get it working well with Windows XP, so I have to do all the programming from the keypad, which means my programming can't be backed up. Suffice it to say, i thought it was time for a change. The last time I programmed my MX1000, it took almost three days to set up the keys and learn the codes, and it only went that fast because I'd done it twice before. I finished setting up my Harmony 880 in about four hours from startup. That may seem like a lot of work, but my experience is that nothing works out of the box for a home theater system. When you're trying to get several brands of components working together, it takes some tinkering. Several things weren't right after the automatic setup process. Some of the functions didn't control properly and I needed to remove some buttons and add others. My 400 slot DVD changer required the most work. My iPod had to be added from scratch. My Philips TV worked without changes, as did my Technics receiver. I had to work with the power off/on settings to get things working to my satisfaction. A problem with almost all macro-capable programmable remotes is that almost no devices have discrete off and on functions. To save a button, manufacturers have one button that toggles between off and on. Consequently, the remote can't be sure what the power state of a device is, and it's possible for devices to get out of sync. The 880 handles this situation as well as can be expected. If you start with all devices off, and if you keep the remote squarely pointed at the system until all the functions in an action are completed, your devices should turn off and on as required. It's a tricky situation, and errors are easily possible. If things get messed up, pressing the Help button starts a dialog on the remote that should get all the devices synced up again. My MX1000 has nothing like that, and I'm constantly turning things on and off manually. The Web configuration process isn't quite as straight-forward as I'd like. Sometimes I can't figure out how to get to a particular screen where I made a specific setting. So plan on spending some time learning the configuration process. But I was able to accomplish everything I wanted. My DVD changer takes a long time time to initialize, but I was able to force it to remain on when changing functions. Some of the DVD functions weren't set up by the automatic configuration process, but they were defined in the device definition, so I could add them without having to have the 880 learn any codes. I was able to create an action for my iPod. For that, I had to teach the 880 all the codes for my navipod remote for the iPod. It took about a half hour including testing and minor revisions. Given my experience, the 880 is about as easy to set up as one could reasonably expect. Part of the configuration reflected my own preferences. Some reflected characteristics of my equipment. Manufacturers tend to use the same control sets for many devices. My 400 disk changer uses many of the same codes as a Sony 5 disk changer, for example. A bit of custom work was required to add the special buttons I needed to really use the 400 disk changer. The point, though, is that I was able to achieve everythign I wanted in a reasonable period of time, including my learning. The 880 works as well as my previous remote, is easier to configure, is lighter and feels better built, and costs $150 less. I think that's a bargain by any terms. No, it didn't work right out of the box, but it did everything I wanted, and I'm pretty demanding. I recommend the Harmony 880 highly. | ||
 | Porter-Cable 7518 3-1/4 HP Speedmatic 5-Speed Router | |
 | "Consider carefully before you buy" | 2006-02-22 |
| The Porter-Cable 7518 and 7519 (it's fixed-speed cousin) are solid routers, but you should consider their advantages and drawbacks carefully before you buy. Handheld, they are beasts, but that's true of all 15A (15 Ampere) routers. They weigh about 13 pounds, and using them is almost like weight training. That may be what you need in a production environment, where you'll beat the router to heck, but it's overkill for a home shop. For handheld use a 12A handheld router is plenty. The primary application for a 15A router is panel raising with large bits, an operation that should never be performed hand-held. (The Ampere rating is an indication of the power the router can safely deliver on a continuous basis without burning out. It doesn't describe the power the router normally draws, just the peak power it's capable of. With smaller bits, you'll never need the kind of power that a 15A router can deliver.) The chief reason most of us would buy one of these routers is to use it under a router table. In my opinion, the best way to do that is to mount the motor in a router lift device. This enables you to adjust the router height from above the table, without lifting the router and router plate out of the table top (They're heavy and the handles nearly fill the opening, making removal awkward!) or struggling to work under the table. I recommend a router lift that can raise the collet above the table top to simplify bit changes. My choice was the Jointech SmartLift Digital. The JessEm Mast-R-Lift also raises the collet above the table, but I've never used it. Even in a router table, you need 15A only if you're routinely spinning bits larger than about 2", which are mostly horizontal panel-raisers. A 12A router is fine for most router table use. A 12A router won't last as long if you're using large bits, however. I can't imagine why anyone but a production shop would buy the 7519. The single-speed feature may provide very slightly higher reliability but it greatly restricts the bits you can use. If you shop, there's no real difference in price between the two models. For almost everyone, the 7518 is the best choice. Porter-Cable should be ashamed for their unwillingness expend any R&D on the 7518 and 7519. Nowadays, every router has a self-extracting collet, but these are the only routers I know that don't have a locking spindle and therefore require two wrenches for bit change. (PC's latest 2 1/4 horse router has an auto-locking collet, so how primitive is one that doesn't lock at all?) I'd also blast their cheapness for not including a 1/4" collet. The location of the power switch on top of the motor housing can be awkward, since you have to remove one hand from the handles to cycle power. When using the supplied base, the adjustment mechanism requires turning the aluminum-encased motor housing inside a huge aluminum screw in the base. (Few engineers would design with aluminum sliding on aluminum, particularly when the surfaces can't be lubricated.) Operation is rough and awkward, particularly under a router table. There's nothing to keep dust out of the adjustment mechanism, so the aluminum screw can collect grit, and under extreme conditions can jam. A router lift circumvents all these problems. In summary, I recommend that you consider the 7518 and 7519 only if you'll be mounting the motors in a router lift. If you don't want to spend the money on a router lift, consider one of the newer routers that has built-in above-table adjustment. 12A routers are now available from Milwaukee (Model 5616-20), Porter-Cable (model 894PK), Freud (model FT1700VCE), and others. The Triton TRC001 is a 15A router that is reputedly excellent for use under a router table, but I haven't used it. If you want a single router for use in router table and hand-held, buy a multi-base kit to make it easy to switch functions. It is very time-consuming to convert a table-mounted router to handheld use when the router is screwed to the router plate. | ||
 | Porter-Cable 7519 Speedmatic 3-1/4 HP Router | |
| "You probably want the model 7518" | 2006-02-18 |
| I can't imagine why anyone but a production shop would buy the 7519. The single-speed feature may provide very slightly higher reliability but it greatly restricts the bits you can use. If you shop, there's no real difference in price between the two models. For almost everyone, the 7518 is the best choice. Don't use an external speed control on this router! Porter-Cable technical support says it will burn out the router. See my review of the Porter-Cable 7518 router for more thoughts on these routers. | ||
 | Performax 628900 Mini 10"x20" Benchtop Drum Sander | |
| "Outstanding functionality and a great value" | 2005-12-13 |
| I bought the Performax 10-20 because of it's compact size. For my purposes, mostly making boxes, I didn't need more capacity, and I didnt' want to give up any more floor space than I had to. When I got to work with it, I was much impressed. Although the documentation could be clearer, setup was simple and fairly straightforward. With little effort, I had the feed belt tracking properly and the drum adjusted with only .001 inch difference between the left and right sides of the sanded piece. Everything about the machine feels solid, and it looks like it should work well for a long time. I do recommend that you purchase the infeed/outfeed tables (Performax part 608005) if you're sanding longer pieces. It would be nice if Amazon carried them, but you can order them through any Performax dealer. I ordered a pair for $87 from my local Woodcraft. | ||
 | 2PORT 1U Dvi-i USB KVM Switch 2X6FT Cables Incl Audio USB Switch | |
| "Works as advertised!" | 2005-10-25 |
| My setup includes a home-built Windows XP with an Intel mainboard and a Power Mac G5, both fully updated. I'm using a USB Mac keyboard and a Sony DVI monitor. Everything has worked flawlessly. The manual isn't bad, but could be better. I can't help wondering if some of the dissatisfied users haven't failed to read the manual closely, thereby missing a detail or two. Beyond plugging cables, little setup is required. I had to make a setup change to accomodate the Mac keyboard. By default, the ports are configured to auto-detect keyboard types when connecting to Windows PCs. Mappings between the keyboard types enable you to enter any keystroke with either type of keyboard. For example, my Mac Apple key executes a Windows Menu keystroke when the Windows PC is selected. The only thing I'd love to see is switching for optical audio. I have a 5.1 speaker system, and I have to switch inputs between the systems manually. 2-channel audio switching works fine, however, and that's all the specs promise. The unit includes a cable for upgrading the firmware. Since mine works fine, I haven't looked to see whether any upgrades are available, but those who have problems might check. I've worked with several KVM switches over the years. I was very impressed with this one. It is compact, reasonably priced, includes the required cables, and worked well out of the box. I recommend it highly. | ||
 | Lamello Minicol Glue Bottle | |
| "Not the glue bottle to buy for biscuits" | 2003-02-07 |
| The Minicol is Lamello's less expensive glue bottle. It has a general purpose tip that suits if for gluing dowels, slots, and biscuits. But it is not Lamello's best gluing tool for use with biscuits. The Dosicol has an injector that fits a biscuit slot and injects glue through four orifices. The glue dose is metered so that there is no need to manually monitor the amount of glue that is dispensed. Just insert in the slot, press the bottle down, and move on. The Dosicol is the tool you've probably seen Norm use on New Yankee Workshop. It's well worth the additional cost. | ||
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